Be prepared for price increases

Consumers should be prepared for sticker shock when it comes to chimney repair or hearth appliances, since everything has gone up in price. Not only that, but wait times can be weeks or months due to the increased demand. Manufacturers are having a difficult time keeping up with the demand for products. 

This is frustrating for the homeowners and their providers as well. In some cases, standard freight costs no longer exist and the dealers must pay whatever the freight lines charge. This makes it impossible to tell a buyer what their final price will be for a hearth appliance.

• Aluminum prices have increased by 20%
• Cold Rolled steel has increased by 160%
• Stainless steel price increase is 10%
• Lumber price increase is 130%

Domestic Freight has increased by 5% and is expected to rise due to gas price increases. 

Expect to pay more for gas hearth appliances, wood-burning stoves and inserts, aluminum flue liners for gas, and stainless steel flue liners and chimneys for wood-burning appliances, plus additional freight cost. 

There is some good news, however. The 26% tax credit is in effect, so could offset costs for a hearth appliance and it's chimney, plus installation costs. For this reason, now is the time to purchase a hearth appliance.  Read more about the tax credit at the Hearth, Patio, and Barbecue website.  

_____________________________________

Marge Padgitt is the CEO of HearthMasters, Inc. chimney & fireplace restoration company in Kansas City, Missouri. 

Firewood Allergies? Yes, it’s a Thing.

By Audrey Elder

 

The massive chunk of walnut sat nearly a year next to the woodpile before we gave up on the idea of turning it into a new kitchen floor. Our woodpile consists of whatever fallen trees come our way. This particular behemoth was once part of a massive tree that fell on a friend’s farm property with no where to go but my yard. It was finally time for gloves, glasses and a chainsaw. The freshly cut chunks were quickly split into perfectly sized pieces for the woodstove. They smelled wonderful as I stacked them onto the pile, although my nose burned a bit with each whiff I took. Once alit in the living room, my sinuses reacted with vengeance. As it turns out, different kinds of firewood can create allergic reactions for different people. One might notice a sensitivity to oak while I sit on the other side of the room when burning walnut. 

There are a large range of allergic reactions or sensitivities that can be brought on by wood including a sinus reaction or rash from touching wood. Nearly all woods have the potential to cause a reaction in some people. Unfortunately, there has been little research done on how different woods can cause a reaction when burned. It is unknown if having a known allergy to a specific wood based on a physician performed allergy test also means you will have a reaction to burning that wood. If you have a known allergy to mold however, make sure you are not burning firewood with mold present. If you have experienced sensitivity to your fireplace or woodstove keep a journal of what type of wood you are burning and if that particular wood is bothering you. If a type or types are confirmed this way try to avoid sitting close to the fireplace or stove or discontinue using that type all together.

It is also important to note that smoke never has a place in the home, it should only be going up the chimney. We often tend to think of keeping our chimney clean for the sole purpose of preventing a chimney fire. Where avoiding chimney fires is an obvious top priority, a dirty chimney won’t allow for a good draft to take place. It makes it harder to start a fire and keep all that smoke where it belongs. If you are still having trouble getting your fire to draft, it could be an issue of negative air pressure or just super cold air. Consider having an outside air supply, draft inducer, or whole house ventilator installed to fix this issue.

So far, walnut has been the only wood I have to avoid burning. I was overjoyed last summer when my husband announced a friend offered him a fallen….oak! An entire winter back in my favorite spot in the house, next to the woodstove was happily in my future. May your home be warm and your sinuses happy!

 ______________________

Audrey Elder is an historian and writer living in Independence, Missouri. She works for HearthMasters, Inc.

 

The Tax Credit for Wood-Burning Appliances is Impressive

Hearthstone fireplace insert

 
With the new Residential Energy Efficient Property Credit Consumers can take 26% of the cost for a new wood-burning stove or fireplace insert, including the appliance, venting, and installation in 2021-2022.  

That is a big deal. Anyone who has considered purchasing a high-efficiency wood stove but held off due to the cost, now is the time to take advantage of the government program. 

Wood-burning appliances can be used for supplemental or primary heating, and in power outages. Anyone who has gone through a power outage without heat will understand the importance of having a backup heating system.

Freestanding stoves can be placed in almost any room. They are vented with a Class A stainless steel chimney, or a masonry chimney with a stainless steel flue liner.  Fireplace inserts are installed in a masonry fireplace with a stainless steel flue liner.  Wood-burning fireplace inserts cannot be installed into a manufactured firebox. 

Hearthstone
freestanding stove


• Consumers buying highly efficient wood stoves will be able to claim a 26% tax credit that is uncapped and based on the full cost of the wood stove (including purchase AND installation)
  
  
• The 26% tax credit is valid from January 1, 2021 through December 31, 2022. In 2023, the tax credit will remain in effect for the entire year, but the percentage steps down to a 22% tax credit.
  
  
• Qualifying wood stoves must meet at least a 75% HHV efficiency value. Not all wood stoves qualify.
  
  
• You will claim your tax credit when you file your taxes on IRS form 5695 under “Residential Energy Efficient Property Credit “. You will need your purchase receipt (showing cost of product and installation). You will also need a  manufacturer certificate stating that the stove qualifies for the credit and is at least 75 percent efficient HHV. These are available on the manufacturer website. 

An inspection of the current chimney must be done prior to the installation of a wood-burning insert or stove using the chimney for venting purposes. It must also be cleaned to remove any creosote. The best time to have this done is in the spring or summer.

HearthMasters carries Regency, Hampton, and Hearthstone brands, which all have qualifying models. 

For more information visit www.chimkc.com. 

__________________________________________________________

Marge Padgitt is a chimney industry veteran. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep and NFI Woodburning Specialist. Marge is the President of HearthMasters, Inc. in Kansas City, Missouri. Reach her at hearthmastersboss@gmail.com.

Plan Now for Emergency Heating and Cooking Preparedness

As we all contend with the Coronavirus worldwide, emergency preparedness is on everyone's mind. I'm sure by now that most people have become painfully aware of how unprepared they have been, and are considering how to get ready for the next emergency. And there will be one, no doubt.

Emergency heating and cooking should be something that everyone plans for. We've all experienced temporary electrical outages, and there may be a time when gas is not available, either. As someone familiar with wood-fired appliances, I recommend that everyone has a backup plan using the appliances of your choice.

There are several options available. The first thing most people think about is getting a wood stove or wood-burning fireplace insert. These are good options for supplemental or primary heating if the appliance is located in the center of the home. Keep in mind that the bedrooms will be much cooler than the common spaces. An open floor plan is best so that heat can reach further.

Cookstove by Hearthstone

For cooking, using the top of a wood-burning freestanding stove is an option, but it can be frustrating to use the small space over a long period of time. A better option would be a wood-burning cookstove with a stovetop and oven. As a bonus, the stove produces heat as well.

Outdoor brick oven by
Gene Padgitt

In Italy and France, it is very common for each household to have an outdoor brick oven and the idea is becoming very popular in the U.S. With an outdoor wood-fired oven it gives a person the option of using a different fuel which may be more available than gas or propane, and it keeps heat out of the kitchen in the summer months. Food tastes better when cooked in a brick oven, too. Wood-fired ovens can be heated to over 700 degrees, which is excellent for cooking pizza.

Masonry heater with bake oven
by Gene Padgitt

The best option, in my opinion, is a masonry heater. Masonry heaters are large site-built or pre-cast kits that are assembled on site. They have a large mass of masonry and interior channels that trap heat. By far, they are the most efficient and clean-burning appliances and use 1/3 the amount of wood that a high-efficiency wood-burning stove or insert uses to produce the same amount of heat. Masonry heaters work differently as they retain and release heat over a longer period of time. A great option to add is a bake oven over the masonry heater firebox on either side. Most people prefer to have the oven on the kitchen side of the heater, and the firebox on the living room side. This option is the most expensive.

Plan now for installation of an appliance this summer, before the busy fall season.
___________________________________________
Marge Padgitt is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep and NFI Certified Woodburning Specialist. She is the author of The Chimney and Hearth Pro's Resource Book, and The Homeowner's Guide to Heating and Cooking with Wood. Reach her at hearthmastersboss@gmail.com

Masonry chimney repairs should be done in the spring

By Marge Padgitt

Badly spalling bricks on a chimney

If there are pieces of bricks or stones lying around the yard or driveway, it could be a sign that masonry repair is needed. The first place to look for damages by cold, freezing rain, and wind is the chimney since it is the area most exposed to the elements.

Signs that repairs or rebuilding is needed are missing or deteriorating mortar joints, cracked bricks or stones, or faces of masonry popped off. This is due to the penetration of water into the masonry- and when water freezes it expands, which usually results in the face of a brick or stone breaking off.

Badly spalling bricks

Unfortunately, many chimneys are built with soft type bricks rather than hard type bricks due to the cost.  Soft bricks absorb moisture more easily than hard bricks. After a few years, the soft bricks will begin to show damage, but after 30 years any type of brick or stone chimney will likely show damages of some type, if only to the mortar joints.  In some cases, masons have found completely deteriorated bricks with hard mortar left behind. In other cases, the bricks are good but the mortar is severely deteriorated or missing altogether. When this occurs it is a sign that the wrong type of mortar was used.  For this reason, the Midwest Chimney Safety Council recommends that chimneys should be built or reconstructed using hard bricks and the right type of mortar which will last many years longer than those built with soft masonry units.

Mortar deteriorated so badly that
the chimney is falling apart

Mortar sets up better when the work is done in the spring when temperatures are moderate so the curing process can complete without issue. If the temperature is too cold, the mortar can crack and take a long time to cure. If the temperature is too hot the water in the mortar may migrate to surrounding masonry and shrink. Professional masons can control some of this by adding an accelerant in cold weather or soaking bricks in water before using them in hot weather, but they much prefer working with masonry in ideal weather conditions.

Cement cap with drip edge

The cement cap (crown) should be inspected in the spring to assure that it is in good condition with no cracks, deterioration, or lifting. The cap serves as a roof for the chimney and keeps the elements out of the interior chimney chase where rain can cause damage to the interior flue, smoke chamber, damper, and firebox. Any small cracks or gaps should be filled with high temp silicone, but if large cracks, severe deterioration, or missing sections of the cap exist a new cap should be constructed.  As of 2012, the International Residential Code required a poured formed crown with a drip edge to better protect the chimney from damaging rainwater. The old-style crowns with a slope but without a drip edge actually contribute to the fast deterioration of masonry at the top part of the chimney, so this newer style is a big improvement.

________________________________________

Marge Padgitt is the CEO of HearthMasters, Inc. and HearthMasters Education in Kansas City, Missouri. Contact her at hearthmastersboss@gmail.com. 

Maintaining Your Masonry Heater

By Marge Padgitt

Masonry heaters require regular maintenance in order to function properly, and the flue should be swept to avoid chimney fires. Maintenance includes sweeping of the chimney flue, brushing out the flue gas channels, an inspection of the chimney and heater, and doing any repairs necessary. If the masonry heater is operated properly there should be little, if any creosote in the flue, and you should find only small amounts of soot. If there is any amount of creosote in the flue proper operation and burning procedures should be reviewed. One to two very hot fires should be burned each day, or once every 12 hours for most heaters. The fire should not be “damped down” to maintain a longer burning time as is the normal procedure with a wood stove. The maximum number of fires per day should be three. For chimneys with exterior exposure, the flue will be colder than an interior chimney and will accumulate more soot.

Cleaning the flue gas channels involves using a small poly brush and vacuum. Go to the small channel doors, open them and clean and vacuum each one to remove fly ash. The chimney interior and exterior need to be inspected, and the heater itself should be inspected for any deterioration or loose firebrick in the firebox, any cracking in the exterior heater skin or finish work, and correct clearances to combustibles. Like any masonry structure, the masonry heater and chimney will need to be maintained and repaired as needed. Get a copy of the Homeowners Safety Manual and Burning Guide for Masonry Heaters for free at www.mha-net.org.

Be sure not to use a grate inside the firebox. Fires should be built right on the firebrick floor. The door should be closed during operation, and flammable liquids should not be used to start fires. Homeowners should not burn anything other than dry cordwood in the heater. Building a top-down burn fire will provide a clean burn startup with less CO and smoke. The top-down burn is the opposite of what you learned as a Scout. Place a couple of large logs on the bottom with an airspace between them, then add smaller logs on top in the opposite direction, then kindling. Try Fatwood or dry pine as a fire-starter. The fire will burn down slowly, like a candle. This method warms the flue slowly and causes draft to establish before the fire really gets going.

Your professional chimney sweep is best qualified to sweep and maintain a masonry heater, and can likely do any minor masonry repairs needed as well. Find a professional chimney sweep at the Chimney Safety Institute of America site at www.csia.org.

For more information visit www.mha-net.org or call Executive Director Richard Smith at 530-883-0191.
_______________________________
Marge Padgitt is an industry veteran, author, and educator. 

Clogged gas flue can cause illness or death

On May 17, 2016 Blue Springs, Missouri homeowners Richard and Mary Buckley were told by their heating and cooling contractor that they needed to call a professional chimney sweep to inspect their chimney. High carbon monoxide readings indicated that something was wrong with the venting system.

When a chimney sweep arrived he found an unlined chimney in a 100-year-old home that was completely blocked with four feet of mortar, debris, leaves and twigs. The gas boiler and gas water heater could not vent toxic carbon monoxide gasses out of the flue, and it had been that way for years. The chimney sweep speculates that the only reason the homeowners were still alive is that the house is old and drafty, and that outside air diluted the toxic gasses coming into the home.

Unfortunately, the homeowners did have some symptoms of CO poisoning, which consisted of flu-like symptoms while they were inside the home, but ceased when they left the premises. This is common when a house is toxic.

According to the Midwest Chimney Safety Council, gas flues are often ignored and neglected and are commonly in much worse condition than fireplace flues. People tend to think about removing flammable creosote from a wood stove or fireplace flue, but don’t often realize that the condition of a gas flue is critical. While gas does not produce creosote, it does produce Carbon Monoxide, which must be contained within the flue walls until it exits the chimney at the top.

If the chimney is damaged or does not have a flue liner, CO can leak into the interior structure. Blockages cause CO backup, and incorrect sizing of the flue liner or connecting pipes can also be a CO hazard. Most heating and cooling contractors do not service, maintain, or repair gas flues or chimneys, and refer chimney work to professional chimney sweeps.

HearthMasters urges homeowners to have their utility flue checked annually at the same time the fireplace is serviced by a professional chimney sweep. We recommend that homeowners use a sweep who is certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America. 

_________________

Marge Padgitt is the owner of HearthMasters, Inc. chimney and fireplace restoration and educational school in Kansas City, Missouri. www.chimkc.com