Maintaining Your Masonry Heater

By Marge Padgitt

Masonry heaters require regular maintenance in order to function properly, and the flue should be swept to avoid chimney fires. Maintenance includes sweeping of the chimney flue, brushing out the flue gas channels, an inspection of the chimney and heater, and doing any repairs necessary. If the masonry heater is operated properly there should be little, if any creosote in the flue, and you should find only small amounts of soot. If there is any amount of creosote in the flue proper operation and burning procedures should be reviewed. One to two very hot fires should be burned each day, or once every 12 hours for most heaters. The fire should not be “damped down” to maintain a longer burning time as is the normal procedure with a wood stove. The maximum number of fires per day should be three. For chimneys with exterior exposure, the flue will be colder than an interior chimney and will accumulate more soot.

Cleaning the flue gas channels involves using a small poly brush and vacuum. Go to the small channel doors, open them and clean and vacuum each one to remove fly ash. The chimney interior and exterior need to be inspected, and the heater itself should be inspected for any deterioration or loose firebrick in the firebox, any cracking in the exterior heater skin or finish work, and correct clearances to combustibles. Like any masonry structure, the masonry heater and chimney will need to be maintained and repaired as needed. Get a copy of the Homeowners Safety Manual and Burning Guide for Masonry Heaters for free at www.mha-net.org.

Be sure not to use a grate inside the firebox. Fires should be built right on the firebrick floor. The door should be closed during operation, and flammable liquids should not be used to start fires. Homeowners should not burn anything other than dry cordwood in the heater. Building a top-down burn fire will provide a clean burn startup with less CO and smoke. The top-down burn is the opposite of what you learned as a Scout. Place a couple of large logs on the bottom with an airspace between them, then add smaller logs on top in the opposite direction, then kindling. Try Fatwood or dry pine as a fire-starter. The fire will burn down slowly, like a candle. This method warms the flue slowly and causes draft to establish before the fire really gets going.

Your professional chimney sweep is best qualified to sweep and maintain a masonry heater, and can likely do any minor masonry repairs needed as well. Find a professional chimney sweep at the Chimney Safety Institute of America site at www.csia.org.

For more information visit www.mha-net.org or call Executive Director Richard Smith at 530-883-0191.
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Marge Padgitt is an industry veteran, author, and educator. 

Clogged gas flue can cause illness or death

On May 17, 2016 Blue Springs, Missouri homeowners Richard and Mary Buckley were told by their heating and cooling contractor that they needed to call a professional chimney sweep to inspect their chimney. High carbon monoxide readings indicated that something was wrong with the venting system.

When a chimney sweep arrived he found an unlined chimney in a 100-year-old home that was completely blocked with four feet of mortar, debris, leaves and twigs. The gas boiler and gas water heater could not vent toxic carbon monoxide gasses out of the flue, and it had been that way for years. The chimney sweep speculates that the only reason the homeowners were still alive is that the house is old and drafty, and that outside air diluted the toxic gasses coming into the home.

Unfortunately, the homeowners did have some symptoms of CO poisoning, which consisted of flu-like symptoms while they were inside the home, but ceased when they left the premises. This is common when a house is toxic.

According to the Midwest Chimney Safety Council, gas flues are often ignored and neglected and are commonly in much worse condition than fireplace flues. People tend to think about removing flammable creosote from a wood stove or fireplace flue, but don’t often realize that the condition of a gas flue is critical. While gas does not produce creosote, it does produce Carbon Monoxide, which must be contained within the flue walls until it exits the chimney at the top.

If the chimney is damaged or does not have a flue liner, CO can leak into the interior structure. Blockages cause CO backup, and incorrect sizing of the flue liner or connecting pipes can also be a CO hazard. Most heating and cooling contractors do not service, maintain, or repair gas flues or chimneys, and refer chimney work to professional chimney sweeps.

HearthMasters urges homeowners to have their utility flue checked annually at the same time the fireplace is serviced by a professional chimney sweep. We recommend that homeowners use a sweep who is certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America. 

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Marge Padgitt is the owner of HearthMasters, Inc. chimney and fireplace restoration and educational school in Kansas City, Missouri. www.chimkc.com 

Consumer Alert: Unlisted Wood Stoves

By Marge Padgitt

►CONSUMER ALERT:

There is a big difference in quality and longevity when it comes to wood-burning stoves. Some metal wood-burning stoves and all barrel stove kits being sold by home improvement stores are NOT U.L. Listed or EPA approved, and therefore, cannot be installed in most cities according to the International Residential Code and city codes. 

Wood Stove Kit from U.S. Stove - this is an unlisted product

Wood stove barrel kits allow the consumer to modify a 50-gallon barrel to be used as a wood-burning stove. The barrels were not designed for this purpose, nor have they been tested for this use. It is unknown how long the so called "stove" would hold up. It is definitely not a product with a secondary burn chamber, so would be very dirty burning, spewing black smoke during use. The EPA does not allow such wood stoves to be used. 

So why are these kits sold? Good question, and I don't have the answer to that other than apparently, anyone can sell anything in the U.S. 

When purchasing a wood stove look for a label on the product that says "U.L." or Underwriters Laboratories, which indicates that the appliance has been tested do U.L. standards. If no label exists, it is not legal to install in most cities. 

Check with your local building codes official before purchasing a wood-burning heating appliance to see what their jurisdiction requires. Most major cities require that a licensed contractor do the installation of the stove and chimney or flue liner. The license they are looking for is called an HVAC or Master Mechanical License. Some cities require that a Certified Chimney Sweep by the Chimney Safety Institute of America or an NFI Certified Woodburning Specialist by the National Fireplace Institute do the installation. 

However, it is good advice to not waste your money on these potentially dangerous products. Find a local professional chimney sweep or hearth retailer who carries good quality wood-burning stoves with a warranty. 

_______________________________

Marge Padgitt is the CEO of HearthMasters, Inc. in Independence, Missouri. 

Lighting Damaged Chimneys in Storm August 28

Some of the lightning strikes throughout the greater Kansas City area last night hit chimneys. 

A lightning strike caused major
damage to this chimney exterior
and interior

Pieces of bricks on the ground and roof, or blown out sections of a chimney are signs that a recent event occurred and the chimney may have been hit by lightning.

In some cases the damage is so severe that the chimney must be torn down and rebuilt. In other cases where there are only a few damaged bricks or stones these can be removed and replaced with new bricks.

When lightning strikes a chimney the evidence is usually obvious. There is always an entrance and exit point. The entrance point, usually found near the top of the structure, will likely be a large hole with burn marks, and may include large cracks through the masonry or blown out sections of stones or bricks. The exit point is usually found somewhere within the chimney structure in the flue, smoke chamber, firebox, or even the outer hearth inside the house. 

Damage not so visible from the ground -
lightning hit the top of the chimney and
pushed a brick out on the back side

A professional chimney inspector should examine any chimney that has been damaged by lighting. The chimney sweep should perform a Level II internal chimney inspection with a chimney camera system in order to see if any interior damages have occurred which make the fireplace, furnace, or water heater flue unusable. Only persons trained specifically on chimneys can identify chimney damages properly and provide the needed documentation for an insurance claim.  Lighting and chimney fire damage to chimneys is covered by homeowner's insurance.

______________________________

Marge Padgitt is the president and CEO ofHearthMasters, Inc. dba Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace. She is a CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep and NFI Certified Wood- burning Specialist. Contact Marge at hearthmastersboss@gmail.com.

Cut utility bills by using wood-heating appliances

Cut utility bills by using wood-heating appliances

One way to cut utility bills during cold weather is to use a wood-fired heating appliance such as a masonry heater, wood-burning stove, or wood-burning fireplace insert.

Masonry Heater by Gene Padgitt

Today’s modern wood-burning heating appliances are very efficient and clean-burning, unlike their older predecessors. The Environmental Protection Agency regulates wood stove emissions and has strict requirements that stove manufacturers must follow. This is why replacing an older, dirty burning wood stove is good not only for the environment, but less wood is needed to produce the same amount of heat.

Wood fuel costs can be significantly less than oil, gas, or electric heating appliances, especially if there is a nearby supply of inexpensive or free cordwood. For homeowners with their own land and trees, the concept of no cost for fuel other than physical exertion is very attractive. For those wanting to live off-grid, have an emergency heating alternative, or just lower fuel costs, the addition of a wood-burning appliance is a good solution.

Masonry heaters are arguably the best type of wood-burning appliance. They use old-world technology which is a series of channels installed inside the appliance that trap heat, then transfer the heat slowly through the mass of masonry. Masonry heaters are large and need to be centrally located for maximum benefit. The Masonry Heater Association of North America has more information on these efficient site-built appliances.

Hampton insert by Regency

Fireplace inserts are appliances that are installed inside an existing masonry fireplace. They use a small stainless steel flue liner and can be used either with or without a blower. By installing a new efficient wood-burning fireplace insert the fireplace efficiency will be increased by approximately 75%.

Freestanding wood-burning stoves

For more information on fuel cost calculators visit http://www.epa.gov/burnwise/woodstoves.html

How to Avoid a Chimney Fire that Can Lead to a House Fire

House fire caused by flammable
creosote and improper construction

Creosote is a flammable substance that must be removed from the flue and smoke chamber periodically in order to avoid having a chimney fire. 

Since all wood creates creosote, including dry hardwoods, creosote is impossible to avoid when burning wood in a fireplace, wood-burning stove, circulating fireplace, or stove insert.

Creosote can only be removed by brushing the flue and chamber out with wire or poly brushes that are made especially for this purpose. Professional chimney sweeps know what size and type of brush to use for the type of flue system installed. There are many different types of venting systems, so knowing how to properly maintain each type is critical.

In a masonry chimney with a wood-burning fireplace the most common type of flue system is made out of vitreous clay tile, and the smoke chamber is usually made out of brick, stone, or block. This type of venting system accumulates more creosote than a stainless steel flue liner does because it is more porous.

Stainless steel flue liners don't accumulate as much creosote if they are properly insulated and installed correctly, but can be damaged by a chimney fire so maintenance is necessary.

Smoke chambers that are not parge coated with insulating mortar per IRC Code requirements allow more creosote accumulation due to their rough surfaces and corbels which decrease the flow of smoke and tar vapours.

The National Fire Protection Association and the National Chimney Sweep Guild recommend that creosote be removed after 1/8" accumulation on flue walls.

Gene Padgitt Sweeping a masonry chimney

The creosote being removed should be stage 1 which is very light and ash-like, or stage 2 which is more dense. If there is any accumulation of stage 3 glazed baked-on tar-like creosote, something is not right with the system, the fuel being used, or the operation of the appliance. Stage 3 creosote is the most flammable type, and is most often associated with chimney fires.

A chimney fire occurs when a spark ignites the flammable creosote, usually in the smoke chamber just above the damper, and flame may spread through the remaining fuel source (creosote) on the flue walls.

Stage 3 Creosote on flue walls

Chimney fires can be of short or long duration, but almost always cause damage to the smoke chamber and flue liner due to the quick temperature differential that occurs to the masonry during a chimney fire. Damages may occur to the face wall above the fireplace opening inside the house, to the back wall of the chimney, or to the top portion of the chimney and cement cap due to expansion. Fresh breaks may be found in the masonry and cement cap in a masonry chimney.

Burnt creosote that has been on fire

In a manufactured fireplace and metal chimney damages may occur to the metal smoke chamber and metal chimney pipe in the form of buckling, warping, and opening of seams. With a Class A chimney system serving a wood-burning stove, the same type of damage can occur.

In either case, the damage must be repaired, or parts replaced before further use because the system is no longer functional if it has damages.

Unfortunately, most chimney fire damage is found only during inspection of the system during routine chimney cleaning/inspection maintenance by a professional chimney sweep. Most chimney fires go unnoticed by homeowners when the fire occurs because they either don't recognize the whoosh of air and increased draft during a chimney fire, or are out of the room when it occurs and the fires goes out before they return.

Burnt, honeycomb creosote that has
been burned in a chimney fire

After a fire has damaged a chimney system, the flue liner and chamber may have cracks and gaps that would allow a second fire to escape to nearby combustible wood framing. This is how a house fire due to chimney fire commonly occurs. Another way a house fire can occur is if flame and sparks shooting out the top of the chimney catch the roof on fire.

chimney inspection with a Chim-Scan Camera

Water damage from rain and condensing acidic flue gasses often causes mortar joints between tile liner sections to deteriorate and leave gaps, which may also allow heat and flame to escape the flue system and cause a house fire.

The only way to know if the flue system has damages is to sweep it first to remove creosote, then run a special chimney camera through the chamber and flue. Photos may be taken with this type of camera. If damages are found, do not use the appliance until it is properly repaired by a professional chimney contractor.
 

Break in clay tile flue liner

In the greater Kansas City area, call HearthMasters, Inc. for chimney maintenance, repair, and building.  

www.chimkc.com

816-461-3665

Signs of a Chimney Fire Everyone Should Know

By Marge Padgitt
HearthMasters, Inc.  

Chimney fires are more common than most people realize. Most chimney fires occur without the

homeowner noticing because the fire often is snuffed out by expanding creosote inside the chimney.

Chimney fires can occur in chimneys that are connected to wood-burning stoves, open wood-burning fireplaces, and fireplaces with gas logs installed. It only takes a spark or heat to ignite creosote.

Fire damage is often found during a routine inspection by a professional chimney sweep. Signs that a chimney fire has occurred are cracked or shattered flue tiles; blown out sections of flue tiles; blown out mortar joints in the flue and smoke chamber; smoke damage to the fireplace face or other areas of the house; expanded and cracked masonry at the facial wall above the fireplace opening, back of the chimney, or top of the chimney; a cement cap that is lifted or broken bond with the top course of bricks; cracks in a cement cap; damaged chimney cover; or damaged stainless steel chimney with warping or buckled seams.

Damages to a masonry chimney or steel chimney can be extensive and very costly to replace,  and if the fire escapes the chimney, a house fire can endanger life and property. Avoiding a fire in the first place is the smartest thing to do.

What are the signs that a chimney fire is occurring? During a chimney fire, the following may occur:

·       Loud roaring or whooshing sound coming from the chimney

·       Freight-train like sound

·       Loud cracks or pops (this is the flue tiles breaking)

·       Sudden smoke backup into the house

·       Flames shoot out the top or sides of the chimney chase

·       If not contained inside the chase, a house fire may occur

What to do in case of a chimney fire:

·       Throw a chimney fire extinguisher in to the firebox

·       Shut off the air supply by closing glass doors or closing the combustion air intake

·       Get the family out of the house

·       Call the fire department

·       Keep watch for at least 48 hours in case fire ignites again in nearby combustible framing

·       Call a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep to inspect the chimney and provide an evaluation report before further use. Be sure to follow the sweep’s advice regarding any repairs needed. Find a professional chimney sweep at the Midwest Chimney Safety Council site at www.mcsc-net.org or the Chimney Safety Institute of America site at www.csia.org. 

How to avoid a chimney fire:

Wood should be split and stacked at least 6 months before use

·       Have the chimney inspected and swept on a regular basis by a professional CSIA Certified Chimney Sweep- once per year for open fireplaces or twice for wood-burning stoves or inserts.

·       Burn only dry cordwood - get a moisture meter and make sure that there is only 15% moisture content in the wood.

·       Never burn pine (except hard yellow pine), hedge, railroad ties, wrapping paper, or treated wood.

·       Do not depend on a chimney sweeping log to remove creosote and do an annual inspection.

·       Use Anti-Creosote-Remover spray on logs each time you burn to reduce creosote buildup.

·       Realize that all wood creates creosote and maintenance is necessary to remove flammable creosote.

·       Burn hot fires rather than small or smoldering fires. Smoldering fires create a lot of creosote buildup and are the primary reason that chimney fires occur.

·       Read the owner’s manual.  

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      Marge Padgitt is the CEO of HearthMasters, Inc. dba Padgitt Chimney & Fireplace in Independence, Missouri. Visit www.chimkc.com or www.hearthmasters.us for more information. Contact Marge at margepadgitt@comcast.net.